Touring Southwards

 The plan (in the loosest sense of the word) was to make our way gently back down the coast, enjoying what we found on the way.

The charts of this area look like a shaggy dog rolled in some ink and then had a good shake on the chart table. Tread carefully!

Wednesday 19th set a good standard - no wind but sunshine and stunning views of the 7 sisters mountain peaks

as we motored to an empty anchorage in Kjerringstranda on the island of Tjotta.

Orla caught a red bream and a coley on the way.

Steve laid two lobster pots and caught a large cod while Trevor, Orla and Pete had a swim after anchoring.

Attempting my signature reverse 4½ somersault in the pike position - a wayward leg resulting in a frankly uncharitable 3.8 from the judges.

Steamed fish and veg in a ginger and chilli sauce for dinner then!

On Thursday we had a cracking sail down through Brønnøysund to a little anchorage on Torget island.

Anchored at Torget.

We walked up Torghatten mountain, the famous mountain with a hole through it. Not just your average hole! Ice and water weathering created two caves which joined in the middle to form a hole 160m long from one side to the other of the mountain. It's like the biggest cathedral you've been in, but with fabulous views on either side.

Working up the album cover image. Title suggestions so far include "You can't dance in blue", "Only myself to blame" and "Waiter, there's a hole in my hill". That's taken six weeks so don't hold your breath for songs as well.

It's behind you!

We headed back to Brønnøysund on Friday for Susan's birthday celebrations - a fabulous meal at Hildurs Urterarium.

We tried to hire a boy band for Susan's birthday meal but could only afford this lot - the Backlit Boys.

They'd heard about Susan's birthday and sent a band out on a ferry to escort us in.

Tucked in under Ann-Marie's protective snout.

Brønnøysund is half way up (or down, in this case) Norway.

We're far enough South for the sun to set again. Tonight it was away for a whole hour and a half!

Brønnøysund hosted a brass band music event this weekend. Bands came from all over Norway and there was a great buzz about the town.

Looking down on the channel through Brønnøysund from the road bridge. We are tied up just in front of the Hurtigruten ship on the right of the channel.

Brønnøysund church is pretty and evocative. This is a memorial to locals lost during the Second World War - an awful tally considering it is a small community in a neutral country.

The monument to locals lost working at sea is getting pretty crowded, showing how closely interwoven the lives of many Norwegians are with the bounty and the perils of the sea.

The mighty Hurtigruten (the ferry every CalMac wants to be!) thundering through town on it's Southward leg.

Poor weather encouraged us to spend an extra day in Brønnøysund, enjoying the brass band event and the laundry/shower facilities that Norwegian coastal towns seem to do so well.

Novel approach to childcare in a Brønnøysund bar. Who dares let their child out of their sight in here?

Then we set off on Monday morning to a quiet anchorage at Solsem on the island of Leka.

Not all plain sailing, you know.

Another busy island anchorage.

Pete booked us into a guided tour of the Solsemhula cave paintings. We walked round from the cave to see Lekamøya, a rock stack perched high on a raised beach. The geology of this coast is pretty spectacular.

All smiles at the cave entrance, about to be spoiled when Steve warns Susan to watch out for Northern European cave spider attacks.

The cave paintings - a group of people and a large cross symbol. Amazing and very thought provoking.

The landscape features explained. I'm going with the troll story - easier to follow and much more fun.

Steve and I put some lobster pots out (no luck again) and did a spot if fishing from the dinghy (two lovely Pollack) to provide dinner for the next couple of days.

Steve with the fish. Steve is on the right.

On Tuesday we sailed on to Rørvik where we enjoyed the Kyst (coast) museum and another well equipped guest pontoon.

Another enormous people tanker hauls it's cargo through the channel at Rørvik.

The impressive museum of the Norwegian coast's building stands in the middle of Rørvik's bustling port.

Old waterfront store houses form part of the museum.

Wednesday started with a nice sail South out of Rørvik and all was going well until we entered a very tight channel on the way to anchor.

We tried to sail through some water with a very high mineral content, or "rock" as our on board geologists later identified it. No harm done other than a slight stain on the crew's otherwise untarnished reputation, but frustrating. More so after we backed out and went the long way round the island to reach the anchorage from the other end to find it lacked swinging room and had poor holding that even the mighty Rocna anchor struggled to get to grips with. We headed off into worsening weather seeking out a better spot but the next selection had a steeply sloping bottom and was quite windy so we couldn't get a decent grip in there either. The third site was a success and once we were secured the cheese and biccies took a hammering from the damp and chilly crew. The foredeck monkeys certainly earned their peanuts that afternoon!

Anchored safely at last in Dølvika on the island of Halmøya.

Thursday 27th June: who knew what a great day's sailing we'd have as we chewed over the weather forecast in the morning? Westerly breeze today then 30+ knots of wind with rain for the following two days in the area we hoped to be visiting. Steve decided to do a longer hop today, down to Stokksund, bypassing our planned anchorages.

Staring hopefully into the thing where the food comes out from. One day I'll figure out how they do it...

The wind was ideal and we had a great sail with a bit of everything the beautiful Norwegian coastline has to offer. I was having so much fun I forgot to take photos so you'll just have to sail to Norway and see for yourself!

Stomping along the inner lead.

This sailor shows enthusiasm but suffers from delusions of competence. Fortunately the auto helm is on but don't tell him, it keeps him quiet.

Reefs? They're knots, aren't they?

Friday: rain stopped play. Laundry, showers and personal admin were order of the day in the shelter of the Kuringvågen marina guest pontoon in Stokksund, tucked in behind the island of Stokkøya. There's a festival over on the island but it transpires that enthusiasm among the crew for walking several miles to hear storytelling in Norwegian and watch a Swedish death metal band sinking into a wet field for only £84 is limited. Common sense prevails over reckless adventure. Who'd have thought we'd see the day?

Traditional small farm setup. Cheaper red paint used on the shed and fancy white stuff for the house.

View from the Stokksund bridge back in to our storm shelter. Britain is baking in a heatwave just now, poor souls!

Bad weather break so Steve does what any decent skipper would - makes home made nachos and ginger cookies.

Saturdays are underwear change day, so always a happy crew. Orla is especially excited as it's her turn for the blue ones this week. I'm getting the red ones from Steve. He's looking pleased so I'm worried.

The forecast for 30th June is for a South Westerly gale to hit the area during the night with 40kt winds predicted.

Orla steering as fast as she can, which is pretty fast!

What kind of person lives in a house like this?
A lonely one, probably.

The locals seem to believe it so we set off early to an anchorage at Komersøyhamn on the island of Kråkvåg, drop the pick and batten down hatches to ride out the storm.

The bustling metropolis that is Komersøyhamn.