Fair Isle

We left sunny Stromness and had a good sail Northwards although the wind was on our nose for the Easterly leg to Fair Isle. After we made our first tack we plunged into a fog bank with visibility under 200m in places and evening approaching.

Lots of hats protect your ears from foghorn-related deafness.

We started our sound signals and radar watch drills but after heaving to to allow a booming foghorn to pass safely from right to left across our bows (never saw the owner but it sounded massive - eerie) we dropped the headsail and motor sailed through the night, tooting like a constipated duck, to the little harbour next to the ferry Good Shepherd IV. Now that's a hardy looking ferry!! The elaborately eroded sandstone cliffs looming out of the morning light and clearing mist were a dramatic welcome to this little island.

I'll give you a pound if you can sail through here at high tide.

Once we got ourselves sorted and rested we were joined by some fellow travellers on the 1913 Dutch herring drifter Tecla. We moved over to let her in and rafted up alongside her - our own portable pontoon! She had left Ullapool the morning we left the Summer Isles, and we'd tracked her North for a while before she headed to Stornoway while we visited Kinlochbervie. We would meet them again in Lerwick before they set off for Iceland via the Faroe Islands. A beautiful ship - have a safe trip, amigos.

Rafted onto Tecla at Fair Isle

Fair Isle is about 3 miles long and 1 wide, has about 70 inhabitants and is the remotest of the inhabited British Isles. It is known for it's wool, knitwear and seabirds. There is a three year waiting list for bespoke sweaters so Steve bought a hat (trendy now, according to the lady who was selling them)

but the seabirds are available whether you want them or not.

The harbour seat in use

Hardy locals

Wanna buy some woollens?

Even when the island is shrouded in cloud (it's not called Fair Isle because of the weather), the cliffs and caves are something to behold.

A holy place?

There are two churches on the island...

...and a strong contender for cutest GP's surgery.

Early start the next morning (0530. In the morning!!) for the hop Northwards to Lerwick in Shetland, so a fond farewell to the bleak but beautiful place.